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- Seville
Seville
Spain's great southern city of Seville has a romantic past and a
rich Moorish heritage. The city is the regional capital of
Andalucia, which contains the densely populated beach resorts of
the Costa del Sol along its southern reaches, and the mountain
villages of the Sierra Nevada range further inland, about 25 miles
(40km) from the coast.
Seville has an impressive collection of historical sights,
including its Cathedral, which is the largest Gothic building in
the world. Having been occupied by the Moors for 500 years it also
has a legacy left by the Arab kings in the form of the Alcazar, a
palace-fortress that is regarded as one of the finest existing
examples of Moorish architecture.
It is the perfect setting for high culture and romantic operas
like Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro; the poet Byron however rated
Seville for its women and oranges. Modern visitors might add
flamenco, tapas and bull fighting to the list. The soul of the city
is best epitomised during its two passion-filled grand festivals,
the Semana Santa, held the week before Easter, and the Feria de
Abril, held two weeks after Easter Sunday.
The area around Seville itself does not provide much in the way
of tourist attractions, except for the rural villages of the Sierra
Morena to the north, which offer some perfect walking trails
between the modest mountain peaks, particularly in spring when the
area is carpeted with wild flowers.
Information & Facts
Climate
Seville has a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm, sunny
summers and cool, mild, winters. The hottest months are July and
August, with temperatures sometimes reaching a high of 99°F (37°C).
Temperatures are, however, sometimes modified by cool sea breezes -
a relief at the height of summer. Winter tends to have mixed sun
and cloud and January is the coldest month. Autumn and winter are
the wettest months, and September and October often bring heavy
showers or thunderstorms. These are, however, usually followed by
sunny periods. Spring is perhaps the best time to travel to Seville
as temperatures are more moderate, though still warm.
Eating Out
Eating out in Seville is approached with the same simplicity
locals lend to their lifeview. Dishes are uncomplicated and honest,
and ingredients are fresh, flavourful and above all else,
tasty.
Similar to the architectural and historical roots of the
Andalusian region, cuisine in Seville is a mix of Mediterranean and
Moorish tradition. Main ingredients include olive oil, garlic and
wine; but a strong Muslim influence has also infused recipes with a
handful of mint, a pinch of spice or fragrant citrus and almond
elements.
Many visitors are surprised to learn that the city lays claim to
Spain's most well-known culinary legacy - the
tapas. These small, bite-sized portions make for light and
delicious meals, and cater perfectly to a culture that believes
whole-heartedly in the value of good conversation.
Though tapas used to be complimentary alongside a nip of sherry
or a glass of wine, these days visitors will be hard-pressed to
find a restaurant simply "giving away" the traditional side of
jamon(cured ham) or the odd bowl of
acietunas(olives). Still, sampling one of the 4, 000 odd
tapas bars is a must, or if you're in the mood for something more
substantial, the city has an assortment of impressive restaurants
suitable for a variety of budgets.
Over lunchtime ask about the
menu del dia(menu of the day); this normally includes a
choice of soup or salad, a main course, and a dessert - and often
proves a delicious and economic way to make your way through
Seville.
Keep in mind the Spanish eat late, most restaurants only open at
8pm; though the locals will filter in between 9pm and 11pm.
Getting Around
Most of the tourist sights in Seville are in the central area,
which is flat, and are best explored on foot. Those travelling
further afield will find buses the easiest and most economical way
of getting around. Bus stops are easy to find on the main avenues
and run on circular routes around the city, and line routes in all
directions out of it. Bus routes emanate from Plaza Nueva, Plaza de
la Encarnacion, La Barqueta and Prado de San Sebastian. Taxis can
be found at designated stands in all the main plazas, or can be
hailed on the street if showing a green light, which means they are
available. Avoid driving in Seville as roads are confusing and hard
to negotiate.
Language
Spanish is the official language, but English is widely
understood in areas frequented by tourists. Catalan, Galician and
Basque are spoken in the relevant areas.
Money
Spain's official currency is the Euro (EUR). One Euro is divided
into 100 cents. Money can be exchanged at bureaux de change and
major hotels, but banks give the best rates. All major credit cards
and travellers cheques are widely accepted at most hotels,
restaurants, and shops. ATMs are widespread and are generally the
cheapest and most convenient method of obtaining money.
Night Life
Seville may be pegged as the slightly sleepy southern cousin of
Madrid and Barcelona, but the local taste for living leaves little
to be desired when it comes to nightlife. Between the bohemian
"botelling" of the local university students and the affinity for
the arts held by the more sophisticated Sevillianos, the Andalusian
capital has an assortment of activities on offer; nightlife in
Seville is merely a matter of deciding what to do and where to
go.
Regardless of how you end your evening, a great way to start is
by blazing a tapas trail. A wide selection of dingy dives and
smoother, more stylish spaces crowd around the cobblestone streets
of Barrio Santa Cruz and the area around the Catedral de Seville.
Simply look for the prodigal leg of
jamon(cured ham) hanging from the ceiling and pop in for a
quick bite, an easy chat and a cold
Cruzcampo(Seville's local beer). Keep moving though:
walking, talking and eating is the best way to conquer the
countless options.
When you can't stomach any more sample-sized portions, head to
either Plaza Alfalfa or Calle Betis for a bit of bar-hopping. Both
areas offer revellers some real choice - the latter literally
wall-to-wall with local watering holes. During Seville's sultry
summer nights, sipping a sherry alongside the Guadalquivir River is
also an intoxicating way to kick-off the evening.
Most Seviallanos only leave home around 11:30pm, at which point
they start the night with a stiff drink and a shot. Partygoers
drain their drinks and head to the discotheque around 1am - from
here it's possible to dance the night away until 10am the next
morning.
For those with a calmer, more cultural appetite, the nightlife
in Seville can be just as satiating.
Flamenco, a passionate mix of dance, music and singing with
roots reaching into Andalusia's Roma (gypsy) communities, is a firm
favourite and must-see in the city. There's plenty of venues with
regular
tablao(performances); the Triana district caters to locals
while options in Santa Cruz are more tourist-friendly - often
offering a traditional Andalusian meal alongside the performance.
Visit the central tourist bureau to schedule a slot for yourself
and your family.
For those who would rather forego flamenco, Seville's opera
house, Teatro de la Maestranza, attracts iconic celebrities and
features big-name shows. Occasionally jazz and classical concerts
also take place.
If itching for something more interactive, clubs where locals
show-off their Sevillanas skills are also spotted and dotted around
the city. Tourists can learn the basic steps of this famous dance
in these informal gatherings of singing and dancing.
Shopping
Though the city isn't as fashion conscious as other nearby
cosmopolitan counterparts, Seville is nonetheless Spanish, meaning
aisle cruising is an acceptable way to spend large chunks of time.
Tourists will find the experience relaxed and unhurried, many
Sevillian shoppers make several stops along the way for coffee and
tapas, and stores often close in the middle of the day for
siesta.
Shopping in Seville has everything from small, specialty shops
to big, overbearing department stores. In fact, the local little
guys are often embroiled in battle with the emboldened Spanish
brands, the most famous being Zara and Mango. Needless to say,
tourists have an amazing assortment of options.
The area around Plaza Neuve is prime territory for anything chic
and stylish, and the pedestrian thoroughfares of Calle Tetuan and
Calle de las Sierpes are cluttered with opportunities to purchase
some smart Spanish clothes or pay top dollar for the more high-end
haute couture.
Tourists shopping in Seville may also be interested in scooping
up a few items more aptly aligned with local culture. Ceramics and
Andalusian linen and shawls make great Seville souvenirs and are in
no short supply.
Take a trip across the Guadalquivir River to the traditional
tile-making area of Triana; a handful of shops and functioning
workshops sell beautifully crafted tiles and in some cases it's
possible to watch the craftsman shape their wares. Many of the
beautiful azulejos (ceramic tiles) adorning local churches, houses
and tapas bars are still sculpted there today.
If you don't feel like trooping so far, the area around the
Reales Alcazares and the Barrio Santa Cruz also houses a healthy
supply of shops selling hand-painted ceramics and embroidered
blankets and scarves. There's also plenty of touristy knick-knacks
and Seville bric-a-brac on sale.
Most shops are open from 10am to 2pm and then from 5pm to 8pm
during the week; from 10am to 2pm on Saturday; and are closed on
Sundays. The big-brand names and large department stores often stay
open all day. Most places accept all major credit cards.
Time
Local time is GMT +1 (GMT +2 between the last Sunday in March
and the Saturday before the last Sunday in October). The Canary
Islands: GMT (GMT +1 in summer).