- Destinations
- South America
- Argentina
- Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires
Downtown Buenos Aires is as sophisticated as any European city,
with its wide avenues, fine colonial architecture and rows of
pavement cafes. The city was built by French, Italian and Spanish
immigrants and the Porteños (locals) still regard themselves as
more European than South American. Travellers walking through the
leafy parks and boulevards could be forgiven for thinking they were
in Madrid, Paris or Milan.
Buenos Aires was founded on the shores of the Rio de la Plata in
1570 and was named after the patron saint of sailors for the good
wind or
buen aire.The city remained a colonial backwater for 200
years while the Spanish concentrated their attentions on wealthier
Peru. During this time Buenos Aires became a thriving centre for
smuggling between South America and Europe. Dissatisfaction with
Spanish economic and political dominance escalated to boiling point
and culminated in the revolution of May 1810 and finally to
independence in 1816. Its history since then has been dogged by
military coups and political mismanagement; the consequences of
which are growing disaffection with the government and widespread
poverty, as is evident in the sprawling shantytowns on the city's
outskirts.
This turbulent history has not managed to stifle the indomitable
spirit of the Porteños whose passion, charm and vibrancy have
forged this great city, a place in which the fire of Evita's soul
and the allure of the tango endure. A holiday in Buenos Aires is a
journey of discovering the fire that pervades Argentine culture, in
everything from food and conversation to music, art and dance.
Information & Facts
Climate
Buenos Aires has a temperate climate with average temperatures
ranging from 94°F (35°C) in January to 50°F (10°C) in July. The
heaviest rain falls during autumn and spring, though rain can be
expected at any time of the year. Many locals leave Buenos Aires
during the hot summer months (December, January and February) and
head for the coastal resorts.
Eating Out
Beef is king in the Buenos Aires food world; Argentina is famous
for the best, juiciest, tastiest and most tender steaks served in
its
parrillas(steak houses). These are followed closely by
various Spanish and Italian pleasures, as well as sushi, fusion,
and vegetarian cuisine.
There are numerous
al paso(walk through) places in the city, selling hot-dogs (
panchos), beef sausages (
chorizos), and
milanesas(breaded, fried cutlets). You can buy a
mate, the most traditional social non-alcoholic beverage, in
any Coto or Carrefour supermarket. Be sure to try a gourmet
helado(ice cream) and
empanadas(small pastries stuffed with combinations of cheese
and meats), or the
alfajor, an Argentinean cookie.
Various small restaurants offer foreign meals, mostly Japanese,
Chinese, Thai, Arabic, Spanish and Italian. Expensive and luxurious
restaurants can be enjoyed at Puerto Madero and Palermo. The main
areas to go out are Puerto Madero, Recoleta, Palermo SoHo and
Palermo Hollywood, home to trendy stores, restaurants and bars.
Most locals head out to dinner around 9pm.
Getting Around
The street structure, organised in a grid pattern, makes it easy
getting around in Buenos Aires, and the best way to explore the
city and take in its character is on foot. However, the city is
serviced by an efficient, widespread and cheap public transport
system that consists of buses and an excellent underground rail
service (the
Subte). Although it services most of the city centre, the
Subteis not very extensive beyond the central core. The
Subte costs ARS$1.10 per journey. Pre-paid Subte cards or passes
can be purchased from the ticket booths (
boleterias) at each station in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10
or 30 journeys. It gets very hot and crowded in summer especially
during peak hours, and closes between 10pm and 5am.
The bus (
colectivo) network is huge and covers the city, and although
very useful for getting around, the overwhelming amount of routes
makes it confusing for tourists. Bus fares are paid in coins into
an automatic ticket vending machine when boarding the bus and cost
a minimum of $0.80. Many services run all night but with less
frequency. There are also urban train services that can be useful
for reaching the outlying suburbs.
Taxis are everywhere and relatively inexpensive, but although
generally safe, visitors should be aware that there are fake taxis
that pick up tourists and rob them. It is safer to phone for a
radio taxi or remise, a fixed-price radio cab booked in advance
that acts like a chauffer-driven car and can be cheaper than taxis
over longer distances. They are more useful than renting a car for
excursions from the city and even for a day's tour of the
suburbs.
Kids Attractions
For many children travelling in Buenos Aires, the chaos and hum
and drum of the city can be quite intimidating, but look just a
little further and you'll find an attraction tucked away in almost
every corner and in just about every
barrio(neighbourhood). Buenos Aires is a great city to
explore by foot, but for the more active, it is also extremely
bicycle-friendly. Rent a bike and pedal your way round the leafy
suburbs and side streets stopping off for the occasional
attraction. Take the kids to the Nueve de Julio Avenue, claimed to
be the widest avenue in the world, and admire the 220-foot-tall
(67metre) obelisk in the centre, marking the heart of Buenos Aires.
Or for a slightly more cultural experience, take a stroll in
Recoleta with the children past the Floralis Genérica, a working
metal sculpture of a flower that opens and closes with the sun -
the kids will be in awe! For those days when the sun isn't shining,
head to one of the many indoor playgrounds or museums dotted around
the city, such as the Museo de Los Ninos, or even the Galileo
Galilei Planetarium where children will have a great time
stargazing and learning about the solar system.
Language
Spanish is the official language of Argentina but English
is understood in the tourist areas.
Money
The Argentinean Peso (ARS) is divided into 100 centavos. The
recent devaluation of the Peso has made Argentina more affordable
for travellers but there is still much economic uncertainty and
travellers are advised to keep an eye on the exchange rate.
Currency can be exchanged at banks and
cambios(bureaux de change) but it is easier to use ATMs,
available in most urban towns, which reflect the current exchange
rate. Credit and debit cards are generally accepted, and US Dollars
and Euros are normally taken everywhere, but some international
cards place limits on transactions. Cirrus cards sometimes aren't
accepted. There can be problems using travellers cheques in rural
areas, although most banks in major cities should accept them. It's
best to take travellers cheques in US Dollars to avoid additional
exchange rate charges.
Night Life
Famed for its huge selection of trendy clubs, fashionable music
bars and attractive restaurants, it's no wonder the city of Buenos
Aires never sleeps. From the dimly lit tango bars and mainstream
hard house dance clubs to the Teatro Colón and smaller independent
theatres, there is something for just about everyone in this
buzzing city.
In typical Latin fashion, dinner is very late and usually taken
between 10 and 11pm so clubs only really get going at around 2am.
Recoleta, Palermo, Puerto Madero and Costanera are the trendiest
neighbourhoods for dance clubs and all the hippest locals can be
found sipping on long drinks in the surrounding bars. It is not
uncommon to find residents walking home at sunrise after a big
night out on the town.
Culture vultures will simply adore the arts and culture scene
here and plenty of Broadway-style hits can be found in both English
and Spanish shows at most of the 30-odd professional and
underground theatres in the San Telmo and Abasto
neighbourhoods.
Other than the usual run-of the-mill watering holes, there are
also many bars in Buenos Aires offering shows such as flamenco
dances, readings, tango and folkloric dance shows, and live
acoustic music, providing a twist and bit of entertainment to
accompany your usual evening drinks. The gay scene is Buenos Aires
is thriving and rivals only that of Rio de Janeiro's in South
America, with San Telmo being the main strip catering to this
market with small gay bars and restaurants.
Shopping
Buenos Aires offers a wealth of authentic local treasures, from
fine leather goods found in Murillo Street to
alfajores(traditional cake/cookies, often containing
dulce de leche). Shops are generally open Monday through
Friday from 9am to 8pm, and Saturdays from 9am to 1pm.
Florida Street and Lavalle Street are for pedestrians only, in
the
zona de calzadosthere are many shops that sell tango shoes
and the Palermo Viejo, in Palermo, has various shops that will
appeal to young, artsy people. There are also numerous fairs and
markets to be explored, including Recoleta Fair (located in the
Francia Park) and the San Telmo market.
Feria Recoleta, in Plaza Francia, boasts an assortment of
artisan goods. Take in the Plaza Serrano in Palermo Viejo and the
Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo. Defensa Street is enticing as it comes
alive with performers and vendors. Funky candles, street address
plates and markers are available from Último Taller.
Shopping malls are a regular attraction and convenient shopping
locations for many
Porteños(people from the port). The most famous stores in
Buenos Aires can be found in these vast malls, along with
restaurants, cafés, arcades and movie theaters. Shopping malls are
open 7 days a week from 10am to 10pm.
Popular Buenos Aires souvenirs include tango music, mate cups,
leathergoods and Argentine wine.
Sightseeing
Buenos Aires (meaning fair winds in Spanish) has several
enthralling attractions. Most siteseeing is best done by day, for
aesthetic and precautionary purposes, and walking is the best (but
by no means only) mode of transport in this intriguing city.
Visit the Cementerio de la Recoleta, home to the tomb of Eva
Perón, the actress married to Argentina's President Juan Perón and
subject of the musical Evita, or wander under the magnificent
facades of the downtown area, favourable for its marvellous old
European buildings. More enthusiastic sightseers can take a
paddleboat from the promenade in Palermo and stroll through a
prolific flower garden.
An absolute must for culture vultures is a trip to the Palermo
Viejo district, with its charming cobblestone streets, bookstores,
bars and boutiques, or an afternoon exploring the Caminito
pedestrian street's arts and crafts in La Boca. Enjoy watching
tango dancers in the cobblestone streets and take a tour of the La
Bombonera Stadium, experience El Puerto de Buenos Aires during the
day, or for a taste of history, visit the National Immigration
Museum.
Visitors wanting to catch a show can do so at the Recoleta
Cultural Center. Built in 1732, it was originally a convent
connected to the Basílica del Pilar. Today it is a cultural center
hosting concerts, live performances and screenings. The historical
building also accommodates sculptures, paintings and photographs in
different exhibitions, providing a fantastic sightseeing experience
for any visitor to this exciting city.
Time
Local time in Argentina is GMT -3.