Despite its extreme north Atlantic situation, Reykjavik's climate is not as cold as might be expected, its average mid-winter temperatures being no lower than those in New York City. This is because the Icelandic coastal weather is tempered by the warm waters of the Gulf Stream. The city's coastal location does, however, also mean it is prone to wind, and gales are common in winter. Reykjavik is also a very wet city, having on average 213 rainy days out of the year, with spring having slightly more sunny days.

Although the national diet is quickly diversifying, fish and lamb are still consumed in great quantities - and, reportedly, it can be quite hard always to find a vegetarian option on Iceland's restaurant menus. Despite this, however, Reykjavik's restaurant scene is exciting and cosmopolitan, as restaurateurs rush to embrace fusion cooking, and attempt to offer fresh interpretations of international dishes using local ingredients.

Traditional fare, available everywhere - but probably only for the more gastronomically adventurous - includes harðfiskur(dried fish-meat, eaten with butter); svið(singed sheep's head); slátur(sausage made from blood and offal, like black pudding); hrútspungar(pickled ram's testicles); and hákarl(putrefied shark-meat). There is also, controversially for some, the option of eating whale-meat while in Iceland - and if you really want to push the boat out, you can get it with some grated puffin on the side.

Those with tamer appetites will be relieved to know that a staple of the Icelandic diet is the pylsa- a good, old-fashioned hot dog, served with fried onions, ketchup and mustard.

The best way to travel around Reykjavik is on the excellent bus service which covers downtown and the outer suburbs from the central terminals at Hlemmur and Lækjartorg. Buses run between 7am and midnight on weekdays and less frequently at weekends. Pay the exact fare to the driver as they are not permitted to give change. Bicycles are an extremely popular form of transport and the city has a network of cycle lanes. Car hire is a recommended option as there is little traffic congestion and local drivers are typically considerate.

Icelandic, but English is widely spoken.

The unit of currency is the Icelandic króna (ISK), plural krónur, divided into 100 aurar. Iceland's three banks, Íslandsbanki, Landsbanki Ísland and Búnaðarbanki, all offer foreign exchange facilities and can be found in even the tiniest villages. Most have ATMs on their premises, available after banking hours, which are usually Monday to Friday from 9.15am to 4pm. Credit cards are widely used in Iceland for purchases and cash advances, and travellers cheques are accepted by all banks and most hotels. Travellers cheques in US Dollars get the best exchange rate charges.

There may be limited sunlight in the northern city of Reykjavik, but the locals here really know how to make good use of those long, cold, dark winter nights. Be blown away by the bright lights of the bars and clubs that line the streets and heat things up on the dance floor. Due to the high cost of alcohol, the nightlife only gets going very late as most Icelanders tend to have a few drinks at home before hitting the town. Travellers arriving in Reykjavik by air should not pass up the opportunity to buy cheap alcohol in the duty free store at the airport - a secret Icelandic tip! Some local Icelandic drinks, such as Brennivín, which when translated literally means 'Black Death', are extremely high in alcohol content - you have been warned! Once sufficiently warmed up for the night, head to trendy Laugavegur where most of Reykjavik's 100 or so bars and clubs are centred round the strip and its side streets. On pumping Friday and Saturday nights it's not uncommon for the street to be filled with people all night long. It's also not uncommon for some of the beautiful Icelandic women drinking in the bars to turn out to be escorts who will then demand payment for any time spent chatting them up. Many of Reykjavik's cafés turn into bars after 6pm and turn into bustling bars, perfect for starting the night out with a few cold ones. Party the night away at NASA on Austurvollur where three dance floors playing anything from house to pop attract revellers, while older party goers looking for something a little more sophisticated should visit Rex on Austurstraeti for a good night out. Live music your thing? Many clubs offer live music early in the evening, such as NASA and Kaffi Rosenberg on Klapparstigur are your best bet. The Norden Voyager Card grants tourists discounts of up to 20% off restaurants, sights, hotels, car rentals, clothing and music in Iceland. During the winter months it costs $19.95 for 6 months' use. Definitely worth it for those planning on experiencing all Reykjavik has to offer.

Travellers planning a shopping trip in Reykjavik should head straight for Laugavegur, in the downtown area, Reykjavik's primary commercial artery and one of the city's oldest shopping streets where boutiques, designer labels, arts and crafts galleries and jewellery design studios can be found. But be prepared to max out your credit card as this is definitely not one of the cheapest areas to shop. The Kringlan shopping mall located in the new city centre is where most people head and although it may be slightly generic, it's full of good affordable stores selling everything from clothing and accessories to electronics and homeware. If you plan on doing any souvenir shopping here, you need look no further than Íslandia, where one can find Icelandic souvenirs such as woollen goods, known for their warmth and comfort, and Norse and Viking trinkets such as key-rings and pendants. Another good buy is the fiery local spirit Brennivín. The flea market on Laugardalur is a good place to pick up bargains and souvenirs as well as local and fresh Icelandic produce and is open every Saturday and Sunday. Shopping hours in Reykjavik are Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm while on Saturdays most shops are open from 10am - 2pm. Visitors can also look into getting the Norden Voyager Card which costs $19.95 for 6 months of use and provides discounts of up to 20% off restaurants, sights, hotels, car rentals, clothing, music and books in Iceland.

Although a beautiful, cosmopolitan, vibrant and charming city, many of Iceland's best tourist attractions are actually located outside of its capital Reykjavik. However, luckily for visitors, Iceland is a small country - and none of the tourist attractions mentioned here require a significant amount of travelling to get to.

As far as attractions in Reykjavik are concerned, don't miss the Botanical Gardens, which are full of interesting indigenous plants and trees; the Einar Jónsson Museum, displaying works by Iceland's greatest sculptor; Hallgrimskirkja, one of the weirdest, most grandiose churches on the planet; and, to satisfy your Viking curiosity, the National Museum, Saga Museum and the Reykjavik City Museum (which features live actors and historical renactments).

Outside of Reykjavik, however - as one enters Iceland's remarkable hinterland - is where the real tourist gems are found. Be sure to check out the Blue Lagoon, a man-made geothermal spring and spa; Geysir, the world's original hot spring; the truly transcendent Gullfoss Falls; Thingvellir National Park, with its incredible hiking trails; and Jökulsárlón, a glacial lagoon full of eerie, luminous-blue ice bergs.

No matter what you decide you to see and do in the 'Land of Fire and Ice', one thing is for sure: don't forget to take a camera along with you, as Iceland is a country uniquely full of sights that beggar belief.